Werebeasts in the Philippines

A young man in Malolos, Bulacan was hanging out with his friends late one night. He grew up in the town outskirts near the wide plains. It was very different then. Electricity was reserved for the wealthy, there were no lamp posts to light the rural roads and when its nighttime, its really dark. Most of the lands were either abound with tall talahib or plots of land for farming so its really scary walking alone when its dark. Only the bravest souls stay outside late after dusk.

These boys were testing their bravery and were on the lookout for something. Weeks ago, an old farmer was heading home late in the evening from tuba with friends. He claims a huge black figure suddenly crossed the road in front of him, and when he tried to run, he said the creature attacked him but he was able to get away. The barrio people had mixed reactions to the old farmer's story but fear is the most prevalent. The boys stayed up late to prove that the old farmer was right and to capture the beast.

Bulacan Visita Iglesia 2011 Map

For the adventurous who want to try a Visita Iglesia not in Metro Manila, try going to Bulacan this Holy Week and visit some churches there. If you're not from there or do not have any relatives in Bulacan, go during the day. At least when you get lost, there will still be people you can ask for directions. Or just follow the map I used. :) You will only see maps as images on this article. For photos of the churches visited last year, please click The Bulacan Visita Iglesia.

The Malolos Republic

January 23, 1899. A date that forever will be in the history books of the Philippines and the world when the country became the first republic in Asia. After gaining independence less than a year ago, a constitution was drafted, ratified and put in to effect quickly. Emilio Aguinaldo was declared the first president, thus establishing the Malolos Republic.

Of course this wasn't really a stroll in the park. Before they were able to pull this through, a lot of forces had taken their play and influence. You would have to consider the current politics, the coming Americans and the looming war. But we were ready to prove that we, the Filipino People, could govern the country ourselves.

The Bulacan Visita Iglesia

The province of Bulacan, home of many old churches and a lot of history. This is became the destination of my Visita Iglesia for 2011. The Visita Iglesia or church visit, goes way back when the early Christians visit the 7 great basilicas in Rome for the adoration of the blessed sacrament. For convenience, usually one goes to churches within the immediate vicinities. This is my attempt to go out of convenience.

First stop, the Barasoain Church in Malolos. This church housed the first Philippine Republic and the site of the Constitutional Convention. It is a popular tourist destination, and one of the most beautiful churches in the province.

The second church on the list is the Santiago de Apostol in Paombong, Bulacan or St. James and it was along the way to Brgy. Kapitangan, Paombong. The attempt to go to the Bisita(chapel) at Kapitangan was cut short because of the narrow roads and no parking space. This is where the Hampas Dugo are and a reenactment of the crucifixion takes place. Unfortunately, these penitents all go out during Good Friday.

So after abandoning the search for the Hampas Dugo penitents, Hagonoy is next where the National Shrine for St. Anne stood. This century-old church is the only place in the Philippines where the relics of St. Anne and St. Joachim, parents of the blessed Virgin Mary, are kept.

Here is a shot of the beautiful interior of the Shrine of St. Anne. The ceiling is made of real wood and the local artisan's artworks are impressive.

After the shrine, we head back to a church we skipped. The seat of the Diocese of Malolos, The Basilica Minore of the Immaculate Concepcion. Located at the center of Malolos, this was the seat of executive power of Emilio Aguinaldo for a few years.

Sta. Isabel was the next stop. Partially hidden from the high volume roads of Malolos and not as big as Barasoain and the Basilica, this church boasts of a greener patio and courtyard.

A view of the interior of Sta. Isabel.

After Sta. Isabel, the next stop was Sta. Rita de Cascia. It wasn't a church that might get awarded with heritage benefits, but the church is known for its unique design during the Holy Week. Arriving at the church, the design is still being put up, yet in its assembly stage, it already looks good. I skipped the part of taking photos of this church, since its setup wasn't completely done yet.

The seventh stop of the Visita Iglesia ended in the oldest church in Plaridel, the Santiago de Apostol. According to records, this church had stood for 400 years.

Altar of Santiago de Apostol in Plaridel

Visita Iglesia de Bulacan

Bulacan. Once the seat of the first republic in Asia, this province holds a lot of history in its soil. Cradle of heroes and artists, the province is proud of its glories. On its ground stands the old churches of the country. And these will be the destination for this Maundy Thursday.

First stop will be the place of the former headquarters of the Philippine Republic, the Barasoain Church. From there next will be the churches of Paombong where the Hampas Dugo penitents will hopefully be, then back to Malolos passing through the Minor Basilica towards the churches of Guiguinto.

Tomorrow, I will post about the churches we visited.

Update: Here is the link to my post of my Visita Iglesia 2011.

Penitence, The Pinoy Way

Holy Week. A time of reflection, a time of penance, a time of commemoration. Here in the Philippines, somehow it becomes quite festive. It is because the penitents take it to the streets. And of course, it attracts spectators.

Being a largely Roman Catholic country, the Philippine culture deeply integrates Catholicism. Since it is Semana Santa, penance is part of the practice. We Filipinos have lots of ways doing penitence. Some make it simple, some make it daunting.

The Hampas Dugo is a common practice of penitence mostly done in a few provinces of Luzon. No one knows when this tradition started, but still it is widespread. In Bulacan, it is common to see the flagellants on the streets during the Holy Week. 

In the past, the penitents will lay on the ground face down and they get flagged hard with a stick tied with strips of rubber from wheels just to draw blood. Nowadays, a razor makes an incision at the back. A clump of sticks are used by the penitents to whip their backs and they go around town for hours. After their ordeal, they traditionally will go to the nearest river and wash off the blood, believing their sins being washed away too.